Saturday 20 December 2014

tokyo & niseko, japan

11-21 December, 2014

Wow. This is it. The end of the trip. All the planning, activities, flights, busses, hostels, hotels, hangovers, smiles and adventures have now come to an end. We've been to 15 countries across 5 continents in 265 days of traveling since April 1, 2014. What a year. 


This last blog comes to you from the grandiose location of Niseko, Japan, where we decided to finish the trip with some snowboarding and skiing fun. Enjoy the read and pics, we promise this is the last time we will interrupt your emails or facebook feed, and we look forward to catching up in person over the coming weeks! 

The highlights

Tokyo
  • We lived in a ryokan - a local Japanese house, where they had plenty of rules, we slept on the floor, and they had paper walls. There would be serious trouble if a fire broke out! However it was a unique and enjoyable experience. 
  • Having been to Tokyo a couple of years ago, we revisited some of our favourite spots, such as Shibuya, Shinjuku and Golden Gai, and we found an incredible sushi joint that electronically shoots out your food on what looks like a mini monorail setup. Awesomely delicious! 
  • We ate sushi literally every night. Surprisingly we're not sick of it! 
Niseko
  • Bliss! We enjoyed chalet living with awesome morning view of the snow. 
  • Boarding and skiing! We had four mountains to choose from, it snowed pretty much every night, and there were surprisingly zero crowds. If there were 10 people in front of us waiting for the chairlift, it was a very busy time... 
  • Night skiing! They really light up the mountain. We went one night after it snowed all day and enjoyed fresh powder lines with no one around. 
  • The food here is incredible too. No sushi, but we enjoyed ramen noodles, burgers, good coffee, and even a fancy 3 course meal one night.
  • And finally, the onsens. Japanese skiing isn't complete without ending the day in an onsen! 

The Summary
Weather: Tokyo was chilly and obviously Niseko was freezing! But constant snow and even some blue sky every now and then made it awesome! 
Activities: Re-exploring Tokyo and skiing in Niseko.
Food: Sushi, Ramen, repeat. 
Beverages: Kath is loving the sake. Damo preferred the local whiskey. 
People: Sort of  did our own thing in Tokyo and Niseko but the hotel people in Niseko were awesome. 
Accommodation: Japan was local style and Niseko was luxurious, two very different types, both of which were great though. 
Fun fact: Niskeo attracts a lot of Australians. In fact, half the tourists here are Australian, despite Sapporo being less than 4 hours away from 50% of the worlds population. 
Budget: Forget about it! Niseko blew the budget away, however totally worth it. 
Overall: Tokyo is an incredible city and a place we can come back to constantly. And Niseko, so far, has been the best ski slopes we've ever seen! 

Tokyo


The lights of Tokyo!

The trick with Golden Gai area is to arrive early. When there's no one around. Like now. Then sit back and wait for the show! 


The scramble crossing is a busy place! 

So much sushi, so little time. Mmmmm. 


To order sushi, here's the process: pick what you want on the ipad, drink tea whilst waiting,  magically sushi appears via a mini monorail, eat said sushi, repeat. We gallantly managed 15 plates. Two little girls next to us ate 20. Whatever. It's not a competition. 
See? Voila! Sushi magically arrives!

Pork buns are plentiful and delicious in Japan


When in Rome... or Japan,  act like the locals. Kath sleeps soundly on the subway. 

The bed on the floor in our ryokan. Surprisingly comfy.


No shoes allowed in the ryokan. So you have to wear slipers. Sizes to choose from are small,  tiny or miniscule. Damo tried small, looked like a giant.

A great time to visit Tokyo is December when the trees change colour!

Kath depositing our wishes and hopes into a certified box guaranteeing that each dream will come true. 

A local wedding

Seriously busy!

The guy behind me loves it! Or he's freaking out. 

Donated sake to the yoyogi park. Lucky park. Ignore the girls doing selfies. We waited for ages for them to leave but they were there for the long term. 



Niseko


Not the worst view

Even the bus ride transfer is incredible! 

Snow proof luggage, thankfully. 



Breakfast at our humble abode

The bedroom view


From the outside. Looks so good Damo talked to the guy about buying it! If only he could find the money. Minor details. 
Defeated after a brutal snowball fight. Kath was the victor, she won this round...

Not a bad day at all!

Fresh snow fall, blue sky, no one around? Deal!

Excited!


Kath ripping it up right before a black run. This chick can ski! 

Damo getting shifty. Note: shifty is the jump damo did, not a direct reflection of his character


Damo launching before a front side board slide...
Nailed it! He gets pretty excited by this. Like a little kid. 

Niseko's 4 mountains. We smashed them all!

Quite a colourful place

Trees defiantly standing up to the snow

Reflecting...

Smiling faces before another epic snowfight!

Ramen! Yes


Jump shots are hard to do in the snow.

Looks cold outside. How about we just stay indoors? 

We even went night skiing. Recommended. 

Tell me this outdoor onsen doesn't look incredible. 

Kath's new man - frosty. Nice guy, bit cold though. 

Definitely a man...

Special night out. 


Apres skiing

How good is this, the entry to the bar is via a fridge door! 

After a long day of skiing, it's good to come home! 


Wednesday 10 December 2014

osaka & kyoto, japan

4 - 11 December, 2014

Konnichiwa peeps. Damo and I are now in one of our fave countries in the world - Japan! The land of sushi and snow and cherrie blossoms and sake and onsens and safety and polite inhabitants. Japan is great. So far we have checked out Osaka and Kyoto. Next stop is Tokyo and Niseko for some skiing before jetting back to reality, eek!



The highlights

  • Bikes! We always love bikes. They are so practical and not to mention FUN for getting about. We rode to every corner of Kyoto - down freeways, through villages, up mountains and alongside rivers. Bikes are so great. Especially Japanese bikes, they have tiny wheels and you don't need a padlock cause everyone here is so honest! A far cry from our double padlock situation in Central America.
  • Our groovy Kyoto apartment (another accommodation winner sourced by Damo), complete with floor mattress, a Jetsons-style stove top which doesn't get hot to touch but can boil porridge in three seconds flat(?!) and our friendly toilet that greets you by opening its lid, has numerous nifty buttons, a heated seat and an automated tap to wash your hands after. 
  • Temples, temples, temples! We are sufficiently templed out. We visited Ginkakuji Temple (silver pavillion, that's not actually silver), Eikando Temple (with lots of gardens and nice views of the city), Nanzenji Temple (I just remember the acquaduct), Yasaka Shrine (was nice at night), Tenryuji Temple (which we got to sit inside like Japanese royalty from the 1200s), Osaka Castle (which we climbed to the top of for rad views of Osaka) and Todaiji Temple (which was in Nara - we did a day trip out there to see its temples and gardens). The temples were all stunning, but I liked the gardens best I think. 
  • Checking out the more modern sights and lights of Kyoto and Osaka. Like, Kyoto Station which is an amazing architectural feat, the monkey park, Nishiki Markets where we did lots of wandering, the crazy gambling rooms, and a few izakaya or Japanese bars. We also visited....
  • Spa World - the greatest place on earth. It's in Osaka. And its the biggest spa in the world. We spent nearly 4 nudie hours in there and it wasnt enough. 
  • Sushi train! Green tea flavored everything! Udon! Soba! Tempura! We at alll of it. We went to the same sushi train restaurant four nights in a row. It's amazing. You order on your personal screen and when your sushi is about to arrive on the conveyorbelt the screen plays music to let you know! It's magical. Restaurant gamification. Genius.

The Summary
Weather: so nice! Sunny and clear skies, but uber cold. 2-12C.
Activities: Bike riding, onsening, walking, eating sushi.
Food: soooo much sushi. We went every single night to this one sushi train that did 8 different types of salmon nigari alone. Yum! Also noodle soups and oats as always.
Beverages: Sake. Asahi. Green tea.
People: Lots of kind Japanese people.
Accommodation: Osaka was a cute tiny hotel, Kyoto was an awesome Japanese style apartment, our last airbnb pad of the trip.
Fun fact: Oh, I don't know... Gambling is illegal here. Smoking appears to be allowed in most restaurants. The Japanese are super honest and hard working - there's next to no theft and people work long hours. The country's in a recession. They invented sushi train. That's all I've got.
Budget: Just under! 
Overall: We didn't see much of Osaka with only two days there,  but it seemed pretty happening and fun. If nothing else, its worth a visit just to skulk about in Spa World! Kyoto was a gorgeous city with lots of temples and gardens and it's nice and flat for riding bikes around! We loved the city and especially our neighbourhood in groovy Gion. It also has the best sushi EVER. Do it.

Bye for now folks,
Kath (and Damo)


Pretty kimonos everywhere! 

What was a cute little Japanese apartment before we trashed the place. I'm looking forward to not living out of our rucksacks soon! Ps. Yes, that's our bed in the back corner there.

Morning friendly toilet! He greets you with a lid opening and can do all sorts of unspeakable things. Just ask Damo. 

My bike, Canary. She was such a trooper to cart me around half of kyoto with those little wheels.

Temple hopping by bike! Check out the miles we clocked today.

The temples around Kyoto are just gorgeous. 

Uh oh, looks like someone just messed up sudoku. 

This was the main event at Nara (the once capital city of Japan) which is where we took a day trip to to check out all its amazing temples and shrines.

Strolling around pretty Japanese gardens like a couple of dorks. Happy dorks.

Not so happy school kids.

More wanderings around Kyoto.

Last time we were in Japan for the cherrie blossoms, this time for the autumn leaves!

Best. A bamboo garden!

I forgot to mention that Nara also has wild deer. Damo nearly lost his marbles with excitement.

More pretty gardens. With pretty trees.

Cruising around the burbs of Kyoto.

This is the Philosophers path. It's nice for cruising. And philosophising.

Yogini me. Zening out inside one of the ancient temples. 

I LOVE spa world. It's amazing. Over 20 different onsen pools to lull about in. If you go to Osaka, you must go there.

Another pool at spa world.

Lunch time = green tea, noodles, veggies and tofu.

Dinner time = all the sushi you can handle! And it comes via an online ordering screen which plays music when your fresh sushi arrives on the convoryabelt, amazing!

We went to the same place every night in Kyoto. This was a record plate count. Boom.

It's pinball for adults! And everyone here is doing it. Its smokey, loud and neon inside. Gross. But the worst part is that gamblings illegal here so you can only cash your winnings in for prizes. Lame.

Sake time! 

Seriously. Don't stare at the monkey in the eye. 

The moneky park had awesome views over kyoto. Here's Damo scaring the begeebers out of one of said monkeys. 

"Stop staring at me in the eye"