cuba

17 - 24 July 2014

Hola chicos! So, we went to Cuba last week. It was epic. We did an organised tour with our buddies Cazz and Elise. It was great cause the four of us got to sit back and relax while our tour leader jam packed our days with new cities and cool activities. We saw Havana, Trinidad, Cienfuegos and the tobacco farming town of Vinales. And we did everything from smoking hand rolled Cuban cigars; to salsa dancing with hunky Cuban men at the disco (not Damo so much, although after he made a few moves on the d-floor in Vinales, I was offered three boxes of Monte Christos in exchange for him! No deal though);  from learning all about Fidel, Raul and Che and the upsides of communism from our sassy tour leader; to accepting some seriously odd black market mojitos in a farmers family home. Cuba was action packed. And in general, a mind blowing country.


The highlights

• Trinidad. It's a colourful little colonial town with cobble stone streets and Spanish inspired houses and horses with carts and little hole in the wall vendors (now legally) selling pizzas and fruit and ice creams. And like most of Cuba, there's a big community feel in Trinidad. Kids play out on the streets, neighbours chat, everyone knows everyone else's business. It's nice.
• Staying with Cuban families in their homes was also awesome. Most of our hosts couldn't speak a word of English, but they sure could cook a mean meal and stock a fridge full of Cristal beer. And they were super friendly. We loved all of them. But if we had to pick a fave, it'd have to go to the husband in Trinidad who waited up for us til the wee hours of the morning  to make sure we got home safely from the disco. Bless.
• We galloped on horses through the mountains like Cuban Cowboys! Damo upped the anti by smoking a cigar at the same time. Smarty pants.
• Salsa dancing at the clubs in Cuba is the best. The boys just come up and ask you to dance. Can you imagine an Aussie bloke a) approaching you and b) asking you to partner dance?! Dreaming. There is however a two dance only rule in Cuba. After two, you might find yourself married to your dance partner and funding his flight home with you. Eek.
• Whenever we found quiet time, the four of us would play wizard (a highly technical card game involving tricks and trumps) in one of our homestays gardens. It was usually accompanied by Cubsn rum, Cuban cigars and Cuban snacks. The Cubans are very self sufficient, what with their trade embargoes and all. We ate a lot of local, organic and Cuban produced food.
• The old school American cars are super groovy. We rode in some,e rad Chevys and Fords. Usually whilst singing along to the tune of the trip, "bilando". The coolest car was the hot pink convertible we took to the airport. It was falling apart and the sun burned like hell, but it was totally worth it.
• Damo loved the Cuban cigars. He smoked all of them. The ones made by farmers. The ones in the fancy stores. The ones rolled on a Cuban lady's thigh. And the black market ones hiding under a towel, in the back of a guys fridge, in his house, down a Habana alley.
• And finally, the coolest thing about Cuba, was learning all the good, the bad and the great things of communism. Did you know that there's no advertising in Cuba? I'd be out of a job. Unless I worked for Castro of course. And that there's basically no internet either? Everyone gets free education and healthcare and housing and transport, but no one can set up a facebook profile. The country's definitely changing win Raul, so if you're thinking of checking out current day Cuba, get to it, stat!

The Summary

Weather: Hot. Oh so hot.
Surf: No surfing as such. But lots of salsa dancing lessons and practice at the clubs. Plus horse riding, cenote swimming, snorkeling, waterfall jumping, bush hiking, farm walking and city touring.
Food: We ate well in Cuba. Not so much at the government restaurants where meals are either bland or not available (depending on whats available on ration day), and the service is bleak. But in the homestays, at private restaurants, street vendors and from organic farms, we ate huge, super delicious meals. 

Beverages: Lots of funny Cuban interpretations of coke and sprite. Ha. Cristal was a tasty beer. Yummy coffee and fresh juices too.

People: The people on our tour were lovely. A mix of aussies, brits and yankies with a hilaiously dry Cuban guide, Natalia. We also met lots of friendly Cubans, mainly on the dance floor, and had a fab time with our buddies from home, Cazz and Elise.
Accommodation: Lots of cosy home stay rooms with friendly Cuban families trying to make a few capitalist dimes on top of their meager wage.
Budget: Well over budget, gah. But it was totally worth it. 
Overall: Cuba exceeded all expectations. It was brilliant and surprising and conflictimg and confusing. People were happy but struggling. Towns were communal but capitalist activity was weaving through it, fast. Everywhere had a sense of community, but also a sense of naive isolation from the rest of the world. It was incredible. We liked it a lot and would've loved to have stayed a litte longer. Next time.

That's it. We're now in Mexico with Cazz in a kick ass beachside villa (another winner accommodation find by Damo) after farewelling Elise from Havana. The four of us spent some time together in Cancun before we went to Cuba, but I'll write about those shenanigans another time.

Hasta luego chicos, 
Kath (Cazz, Elise and Damo)

The colourful streets of Trinidad

Can't afford to import a car from korea? Dont have an old yankie ford from the 50s? Horse and cart, best next option.

Pretty Trinidad

One of our many cute homestay rooms. Fake flowers, standard. 

When in Trinidad, drink beers onthe curb withthe locals. Theres lots of exciting peoplewatching to do. We saw our old neighbor lady turn our streetlight on by sparking two wires together.

This was one well looked after cab.

More curb side chilling. Without facebook and instagram, what else is there to do?

I know, eat pizzas in the park! And for 50c a pop, don't mind if I do.

We got salsa dancing lessons. We were very average.

Time to practice our skills on the famous Trinidad steps!

Followed by my old favourite daggy dancing moves at the local club, inside a huuuuuge cave. It had three chambers. And was delightfully sweaty. 

Wizard time! Accompanied by chips,  rum, some funny named Cuban soft drinks and cigars.

Monte chrisots.

Arriving at our fanciest of homestays in Cienfuegos. 

Thr only marketing you'll find in cuba...

We rode on a horse and cart. It was fun.

And I played a percussion instrument with a Cuban band. On the roof of a casino.

Yay! We're together! And we're in an old school cab!

We made it to Vinales! Here is its rations shop. No queues today...

Fruit anyone? 

We met this tobacco farmer. He rolled us a Cuban.

Damos. His Cuban ulter ego.

Dinner at a homestay incudes all you can eat locally grown and made soup, a meat dish, rice, salad and fruit. And it all comes at once. It's terifying. And will set uou back about $9. We splashed out on some vino too.

"I'm on a horse". And smoking a Cuban. And about to drink a mojito. And it's only 10am.

Me and Nelly. We became friends after this photo and galloped and frolicked together.

Vinales had the BEST outdoor salsa club. We went both nights. I danced with lots of boys. This one's my favourite though.

Snorkeling inthe Bay of Pigs. 

Our home in Vinales. Damos reading on his rocking chair.

Our family. 

An organic farm! It grew everythin. It even had rabbits who produced their compost.

I think we ate their entire farms produce.

Arriving in Havana! 

Bustling with activity.

More cars than you can poke a stick at.

Since the reallocation of housing in the 50s, all the once beautiful, privately owned colonial buildings have fallen apart. Sad sight.

An evening walk along the malacone. 

Time to leave Cuba... in style!

Adios Habana y amigos. On to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, for some villa action.

cozumel & isla mujeres, mexico

3 - 11 July 2014

Hola amigos! So, in case you couldn't tell from Damo's last enthusiastic post, we LOVE Mexico. Its fresh food, picturesque beaches, killer dive sites and western luxuries (which we hate to love, but... sometimes it's nice after 3 months of backpacking to enjoy the tidy aisles and cool air of a Walmart... or to reach over the espanol menu in favour of the readily available English one... don't judge us!). And even though Mexico has stolen Damo's camera; fleeced $2K from our credit card and debilitated me with a cruel case of "big arms" (a phenomenon that has occurred once before where random phyiscal exercise causes my arms to swell up, hulk size, and limit movement to that of a t-rex), we contine to love her. Viva Mexico! Olé! Our time on two of her Yucatan peninsula islands was great. Cozumel is a big cruise ship destination and was pumping with life. And Isla Mujeres, once a pirate island, is populated by one eyed dudes with parrots and crutches. Ha. Kidding, don't worry Mum, there aren't pirates here anymore! Just lots of chilled out, friendly Mexicans trying to make a peso or two. 


The highlights

• Island living. But not in the Caye Caulker sense, with its sandy car-less streets and rusitc food huts and backpackers. These islands are fancy, with hotels and holidaying American families and restaurants with walls. We enjoyed indulging in its fanciness. In Cozumel we spent a day at Paradise Beach Club, bounding on those blow up beach things with all the kids, lounging in hammocks and floating around in the pool. Western bliss. And in Isla Mujeres we spent much time at Playa Norte, which is the kind of beach that dreams are made of. I'm pretty sure you know what I'm talking about. White sand? Palm trees? Clear water? Deck chairs? You got it.
• Diving was a definite highlight. In fact, we wouldn't have even gone to Cozumel if it wasn't for our divemaster buddy Halliday insisting we dive there. And it was worth it (thanks H!). The crystal clear visibility, turtles, stingrays and colourful reefs were bueno. And experiencing our first current drift dive was something else. The super strong currents swept us off the shelf and out into the blue like Sandra Bullock in Gravity. It was fun, and terrifying. Isla Mujeres was something else again. There are sculptures under the water here. Sculptures. I'll let the photos I've pilfered from google explain.
• We celebrated our 100th day of traveling together (I know, one hundred days and we still like eachother!) with a bunch of chilled out whale sharks. It was AMAZING. We snorkeled next to them for hours while they gulped down plankton. And afterwards our captain whipped up fresh ceviche and cervezas which we got to consume whilst floating, in crystal clear waters. Best. Day. Ever.
• Watching the world cup in random places. Poor Brazil!
• The time Damo rallied a bunch of local guys to help him move a parked car and save a local damsel in distress who was parked in! She was almost in tears with gratitude. Damo now makes me call him superman. I don't mind.
• Sleeping in on school days. I know we've had over 100 days of it, but its still a highlight..! Green doesn't look good on you by the way. :)

The Summary

Weather: The usual, hot, sunny, perfect for taking refuge in any type of water.
Surf / Diving: Our drift dive in Cozumel was very cool, but also unnecessarily scary given our dive master forgot to brief us. Thankfully the group survived to tell the tale but it was touch and go for a while when a few went missing with the alarmingly strong current! Isla Mujeres equally amazing. We had a great divemaster, stunning marine life and not to mention the under water sculpture museum.
Food: More of the Mexican good stuff! Guac, tacos, fajitas, stuffed capsicums, burritos, etc. Our waistlines are definitely expanding, but all for a good cause, right..!?

Beverages: Sol, tequila, vino and lots of fresh blended fruits. Mmmm... fruit.

People: Met lots of lovely Americans. And Damo made friends with all the kids on the bouncy water things. Bless him.
Accommodation: We got a killer deal on a killer hotel in Cozumel. A hotel? What a luxury! And check out the view from our pad in Isla Mujeres. Got to thank Damo for both amazing places, he has a talented eye for groovy accommodation. Thanks D! 
Budget: Over, gah. But it was worth it.
Overall: Mexico rocks. Despite Playa del Carmen pulling one on us, we contine to love it here. It has the fastest pace we've experienced in Central America so far, and from food to water activities, we're making the most of everything it has on offer..! 

Next stop, Cancun! We're meeting two of our nearest and dearest for 5 days of all-inclusive hotel bliss. Let the Mexican-western indulgences continue!

Hasta luego,
Kath (and Damo)


Cozumel

I stole this from google, but this is exactly how things looked diving in Cozumel. 

The paradise beach club! A trampoline in the water. Best.

Me. Winning at stand up paddle boarding. 

Damo. Loving the fun climbing things at Paradise. Sometimes, when I'd take a break from playing,  I'd sit on a chair in the sand and watch Damo dart from one fun blow up activity to the next like a big cute kid trying to show all his rad skills to his parentals.

I very much enjoyed bobbing about in this pool.

Diving day! We went out with Colie, a buddy from our Belize sailing trip. The three of us survived the hectic currents a little better than others... eek.

Presenting Sol, my tasty friend. We had dinner here every night. Best fresh food on the island! 

Damo. And a Cozumel wall.

Me. After diving with turtles, just like the chicka behind me.

One of the many cruise ships that came to visit us during our stay. 

Hey, are you thinking what I'm thinking B1?

Isla Mujeres

Another day, another cup of drip filter coffee on our paradise island. Can you see our little friend as well? He and his four buddies have been competing with us for deck space for days. Deck space and avocado dip.

No dip tonight boys, avo crackers instead.

Hammocks, tunes, a dangerous damo cocktail, and this view.

Playa Norte! Tripadvisor 2013 awards rate it #10 beach in the world and #1 in mexico. Lucky us! 

Damo liked it.

Me too.

Lounging on the beach is exhausting. I think it might be coco-choc-nana time. 

So many yummy cold things to choose from. 

Heres to day 99!!

And here's to day 100! YAY. Wanna celebrate by snorkeling with some freaking huge whale sharks? Okay!

Oh. My. Word.

Darn photo-bombing whale sharkie.

She's eating plankton. 

I love how big and strong their tales are. And how one would swim away like this and then you'd bump into another one! The best was when there were 3 together, all just casually swimming around us.

Bye bye little fella.

Ceviche,  cervezas, the ocean and a life jacket. Best combo ever. Best 100th day ever.

Day 101, about to get kitted up for two last dives in these pristine waters...

As mentioned, this is a photo that has been pilfered from google. Groovy hey?! Thr clever Mexicans put the sculptures here a few years ago to encourage diving in the area, thus deterring diving from other more fragile reefs.

There were some massive angel and parrot fish hanging about the sculptures. This photo is a bit outdated. These folks are covered in coral and algae nowdays. No doubt they'll be almost unrecognizable in another ten years time.

There's also a vw down there. With a puffa fish living inside. It's awesome.